Friday, April 10, 2009

Friday 04/10/09: Kaesler Shiraz Stonehorse 2005 Shiraz

Producer: Kaesler
Type: Red
Designation: Stonehorse
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2005
Country: Australia
Region: South Australia
Sub-Region: Barossa
Appellation: Barossa Valley
Cost: $25 - $30 range

Background:
(From the Kaesler website... this is very long but incredibly enlightening on a slow, rainy Friday evening with fantasies of Aussie vino, dancing joyously in your head; seriously, it is about the vineyard folks - NOT post-cut):
Searching the world for excellence

The present range of Kaesler Wines springs from a worldwide search for a property to produce the best possible grapes for red wine.

Winemaker Reid Bosward and his co-owners, a group of international wine lovers, searched areas such as America's Napa Valley, the south of France, Marlborough in New Zealand and other parts of Australia before deciding to buy into the Barossa.

"No other area can produce the intensity of flavor that we have in the Barossa," says Reid.

The search began through a chance meeting - and the love of great wine.

Reid Bosward comes from Dural in New South Wales. As a boy he earned his pocket money packing shelves in the local bottle shop. He dusted a bottle of Grange. "I couldn't believe it. It was $7. Who would pay $7 for a bottle of wine?" he recalled thinking.

In 1987 he came to Roseworthy to do the winemaking course. It was a bumper three years. The 11 who finished that course now shape much of the Australian wine industry.

Reid went back to NSW to work for Murray Tyrrell in the Hunter Valley. Mr Tyrrell - "always Mr Tyrrell" - taught him neatness, order, cleanliness, balance and introduced him to working with Shiraz. He also learned that the real secret of great wine was always in the vineyard. It was knowledge he confirmed making wine in many places.

He took his technical knowledge to France to work with Jacques Lurton, near Narbonne, adding to the "Flying Winemakers" bringing new Australian skill to the less well-known areas of France. At Domain DuVasiere, he brought new techniques to a winery that was 600 years old.

In South Africa, he was instructed by the English owners to ignore local traditions to ape the French and produce wine that better reflected the fruit it was made from. In Moldavia, on the Black Sea, the wine froze - and he returned to the Hunter Valley.

Then chance entered. In 1994, Reid and his now wife Bindy were at Chateau La Louviere at Pessac in the Graves district. They were joined for a weekend by one of Bindy's friends, Julie Fraser, and her husband, Edourd Peter, a Swiss banker.

At dinner in a Bordeaux restaurant (helped by three bottles of 1985 Chateau Mouton Rothchild), Edourd asked Reid how much it would cost to set up a winery in Australia. Reid said a million dollars, which to him then sounded a lot of money. "Ed just raised an eyebrow and said: 'If you see anything in Australia you think would be a good buy, give me a call'."

That thought stayed with Reid as he returned to Australia to make wine for Brian McGuigan in the Hunter.

In 1997, Reid came to the Barossa Valley to make wine for Cellarmaster. This was an enormous experience. "At Cellarmaster, with all its demands for varieties and levels of quality, you had to make 20 times as many decisions as you would have to in other places," he said.

This added to Reid's confidence - and confirmed the knowledge that the real secret of great wine is always in the vineyard. 
In 1998, Edourd and Julie Peter came to Adelaide to visit Julie's parents and the four got together again. At dinner in the Aldgate Pump Hotel, Edourd asked Reid if he had thought any more about a vineyard and winery. "Actually, I think about it all the time," Reid replied. How much? This time Reid had a more realistic figure. "Ed said: 'I think we can come to that'."
"A few weeks later we had lunch at Vintners up here. He outlined his proposal and how much he was prepared to put on the table and off we went. "There were not too many restrictions on what he expected He wanted excellent wine and ultimately I think he wanted it in Australia, but I had to go through the process of checking everywhere just to make sure we were doing the right thing. "We looked everywhere. We looked at the Napa Valley. We looked in the south of France. We looked in Marlborough in New Zealand and we looked at the best regions in Australia." Then chance entered again. Reid first saw fruit from Kaesler's in 1997 when Toby Heuppauff sent it to Cellarmaster under an arrangement for some to go back to be sold under a Kaesler label. The fruit impressed him.

In 1998, he was so overwhelmed by the intensity of the old vine Shiraz that he made a special batch he called "Old Bastard". It was up there in the Grange and Hill of Grace class, but with its own distinctions, its own secrets.

Clearly, here was his vineyard, but was it for sale? By sheer chance again, it was. 
Edourd Peter and his colleagues - an American, a Swiss and a German - with Reid made the purchase from Toby Heuppauff in November 1999.

But, with less than 30 acres, it was not big enough to justify building a winery. They not only needed more land, to meet their ambitions, they needed top grape-growing land. This in the tightly and mainly family held Barossa Valley was a formidable task.

Chance came again. Barry Matthew, the man who owned the property next door, decided to sell out and retire. Not only was this some of the best land in the valley and producing sumptuous wine grapes, it brought together 60 of the original Kaesler acres from 1893.
Kaesler now and the future. The first vineyard the winelovers bought comprised the buildings and 26.3 acres of vines - eight acres of Shiraz, 5-1/2 acres of Grenache, 2-1/2 acres of Mataro, eight acres of Semillon and just over two acres of Cabernet Sauvignon.

The 2000 vintage was difficult throughout the valley. Kaesler's got only 19.6 tonnes off the 26.3 acres - "but it was good stuff."

In 2001, they added the vintage from the neighbouring 28.5 acres they bought later in the year. This new area had six acres of Shiraz, eight acres of Grenache, six of Semillon, some Riesling - "and we planted some Voignier." This was a variety Reid had noted in France as a straight white wine and as a fascinating blend with Shiraz.

The old vine material was there. Led by 3.7 acres of 1893 Shiraz, more than 70% of the red wine vines on the combined vineyard were 40 or more years old. The Shiraz thrived on the sandy loam over clay. The Grenache was on the rockier patches, restricting the crop from this prolific producer.

The first major decision was to intensify the fruit even further. Growers who send their fruit to outside wineries may tend to keep their tonnages up. Growers who make their own wine can opt to restrict the output to increase the quality.

By pruning responsibly and reducing water, Reid has already cut the yield on red wine grapes by nearly 40%. The result is density and exquisite flavour. Baume, the measure of sugar content, is high - allowing wine to be made with up to 15% alcohol.

Why make such powerful wines? "Because we can," Reid explains. "Lean wines are for a lean area. The Barossa allows us to have a high intensity of flavour. Most other places can't do this."

It is part of the partners' determination to make great wine and to develop a style that offers a choice.

"Three companies set the style for 80% of Australian wine," Reid says. "It is a danger for the industry to have so few careful styles. Australia needs the variety that there is in France. We need the individuality in smaller wineries. We need to offer something different."

Kaesler is built on providing a difference. The partners do not plan to take Kaesler up to 300,000 cases. The business plan is not to make money in a hurry. It will take five, seven or 10 years to make a profit. In the meantime, the international partners take their share in wine, not money. The determination is to concentrate on producing excellent wine.

Kaesler would consider buying further property in the valley but only if the potential is exceptional. In keeping with the philosophy to be excellent, any expansion is as likely to be anywhere else in the world.

"The only thread that holds Kaesler together is the production of excellent wine," Reid says. 



Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions:
Nose... Subtle in terms of an initial impression yet powerful in the intensity of what is there. Black cherry, over ripened plum, blueberry, spice, mocha, and hints of vanilla and licorice. balanced yet not overly assuming like many Aussie powerhouses. Reserved and classy yet at the same time, something deeper... darker.... lends a rebellious nature to this unique Aussie vino. 

Palette:
"Woah... hmmm.... woah...". Literally, this was my overt, verbal response to this wine. Like a starving dog in a overstocked butcher shop, I sniffed the hell out of this for probably 3-4 mins (literally) and I thought I knew exactly what my palette was about to experience... a huge, fruity, alcohol-soaked juice that will go great with any cut of beef available on the market and I would simply be satisfied with a big wine that was relatively balanced and offer a nice little tingly feeling by the bottom of the bottle. Well my friends, this is a little different.
The great thing about this wine is the complexity yet its silky smoothness that coats your tongue and mouth. Very beautiful ruby color to the glass offers a subtle coating that is 'Shiraz-expected'. This is one of the one Shiraz wines that the alcohol (15.5%) is actually covered very nicely by a great combination of plum, cherry, vanilla, a variety of spice, and a tinge of mint. All the while, this very interesting wine coats your palette like a silk glove while offering a sense of "Old World" essence that is rarely found in the "New World" wines. I love it. Thanks to David Faircloth of Anytime Wines for recommending another bottle that blew me away for under $30. He rarely steers me wrong but this time, he hit the nail on the head. My rating is a solid 94 for the complexity and silky, lingering finish that does not fail to impress. A great buy guys - find you a bottle, some medium rare red meat, and indulge your senses for an evening.

Wednesday, March 18, 2009

Friday 03/06/9: Ken Forrester: Petit! Chenin Blanc 2008.


Producer: Ken Forrester
Type: White
Designation: Petit
Variety: 100% Chenin Blanc
Vintage: 2008
Country: South Africa
Region: Coastal Region
Sub-Region: Stellenbosch
Appellation: Stellenbosch
Cost: $10 - 12 range

Background:
The historical town of Stellenbosch boasts a winemaking tradition which stretches back to the end of the 17th-century.
The mountainous terrain, good rainfall, deep well-drained soils and diversity of terroirs make this a sought-after viticultural area. The rapidly increasing number of wine estates includes some of the most famous names in Cape wine. The district, with its mix of historic estates and contemporary wineries, produces excellent examples of almost all the noble grape varieties.
The intensively farmed Stellenbosch district has been divided up into several smaller viticultural pockets including Jonkershoek Valley, Papegaaiberg, Simonsberg-Stellenbosch, Bottelary, Devon Valley and Banghoek (copy credit: cellar trackers).

Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions:
A beautiful white, this Chenin relishes in a pale golden color with a few bubbles lining the bottom of the glass. The legs are short and stubby but numerous and extremely even. The nose is presented with a Grannysmith, lemon-lime, and a nice floral bouquet. Somewhat viscous on the glass wall, the overall impression leaves you knowing that this is a well constructed bit of juice.

Palette:
Spring, here we come! This is another white that demands a warm day and blue skies. Acidic yet balances nicely with green apple/citrus as well as hints of graphite and mineral. Incredible So. African for $10 (local). Very soft in texture and has a surprising amount of umph to it (13% alcohol). When in a pinch and need a non-red wine, this is highly recommended not only for the quality of wine itself but for the price. Hard to beat for $10. I rate this little known about gem at 91.

Friday, March 6, 2009

Friday 03/06/9: Two Hand's: Angel's Share 2007

Producer: Two hands
Type: Red
Designation: Angel's Share
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2007
Country: Australia
Region: South Australia
Sub-Region: Fleurieu
Appellation: McLauren Vale
Cost: $31 - $35 range

Background: 
The 'Two Hands' are Michael Twelftree and Richard Mintz who formed the company in 1999 with the clear objective of making the best possible Shiraz-based wines from prized Shiraz producing regions within Australia. In 2000 they started with just 17 tonnes of fruit from the McLaren. Vale and Padthaway wine regions, and the heart of the operation is based in the Barossa Valley. Since the winery opened, Two Hands sucess has gone from "strength to strength" with numerous accolades defining the culture of the organization. Two Hands Wines were listed in the Wine Spectator Top 100 for the last five years with two listings in the top 10, and the Ares was voted one of the 25 Benchmark Wines of Australia.


# 83 of Wine Spectator's Top 100 of 2008!!!!!!

The grapes were crushed into and fermented in open top potters, with regular pump overs three times daily to extract colour and tannin. The grapes were then pressed and the wine was transferred to tank and then racked to barrel of oak maturation. MATURATION 10 months in 14% new American oak hogsheads, the balance in 1, 2 and 3 year old American oak. ANALYSIS Alc 15.5%, pH 3.4, Acidity 7.4 CELLAR POTENTIAL 5-7 years.


Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions: 
Coating the glass with a silky and purplish glaze, this most incredible Shiraz has been a long favorite every since my first tasting in 2005. Upon inspection, the legs actually retain a undoubtable purple color where the legs of many wines are clear and opaque. And while this is not a proper wine etiquette, you may have noticed that I talk about "teeth staining" quite a bit. The reason behind this is that if you are not attentive after drinking some of these Shiraz', your teeth will look as if you just drank a bottle of ink. Unfortunately (and fortunately if the person deserves it) casual wine drinkers do not know about this and it seems that the more it stains, the more he person smiles in an oblivious, yet obnoxious manner. Funny actually and embarrassing at the same time. So do yourself a favor and take frequent powder room breaks, checking yourself in the mirror because after this awesome vino, your bright, pearly whites will suddenly be a row of inky black dentine stubs that look like they should belong to an 18th century street whore. The teeth staining ability of this wine a solid 8. 
The nose presents a most complex, fruit-forward fragrance of blueberry, raspberry, and even a touch of smoke and cedar. Intricately subtle (not a strong nose but what is there is incredible and wide ranging).


Palette:
Bloody hell! Fruit explosion of cherry, black cherry, and "blueberry cheesecake" merging with spice, licorice, vanilla, and cream, and a finish that coats your mouth like a silk glove. Guys, if you want to impress your girl whilst getting her drunk at the same time, this is your wing man. Completely unassuming and the heat of the alcohol is masked beautifully. Great, great juice and for the price, it is an impressive vino. This wine is not always easy to find but they are out there if you look around. Now, I only share this wine with friends and family who can appreciate it. Not because $30+ is all that much money but because this is a wine that should be enjoyed by those who can appreciate it. If you have this wine with me, it is not just because I like you... it is because I know that you can appreciate a kick ass wine. If I pull out a Yellow Tail or a Two Buck "Up-Chuck" (and believe me, I won't be drinking it with you), then I'll make sure that I provide you with an aspirin for the headache in which you will inevitably experience. I give Two Hand's Angel's Share a solid 95 points. Find you some of this divine nectar and share sparingly :).

Sunday, February 15, 2009

Sunday 02/15/09: The Ball Buster 2007


Producer: Tait
Designation: The Ball Buster
Variety: Shiraz Blend (72% Shiraz, 19% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot)
Vintage: 2007
Country: Australia
Region: South Australia
Sub-Region: Barossa
Appellation: Barossa Valley
Cost: $20 - $25 range

Background: I thought it was classic so I had to include this from the rear label of the bottle...
"G'Day Mates,
I don't know what aromas and flavors you'll find when you try this wine - wine appreciation is so subjective and often too pretentious for my liking. I make my wines the way I like them - big, thick, juicy, and deep in color. I wanted to name this wine "Michelle's Block" - after my wife. But that conjures up visions of a soft and elegant sort of wine - and trust me mates, this little beauty is nothing like that. She's broad shouldered, built like a stallion and she packs an intensity of flavor - like only the Barossa can deliver. She's what I call "The Ball Buster" mate... and so is this wine! Enjoy it -Cheers!"
Bruno Tait
Winemaker

Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions: Lightly coats the glass as a display of short, thick legs drip slowly back down toward the semi-thick, ruby pool of purple goodness. This vino has been a favorite of ours for about 2 years. Always a consistent performer, the Ball Buster displays a strong nose of blackberry, raspberry, blueberry, licorice, and like many Shiraz', the ever so slight tinge of alcohol from this 15.5%-infused juice. Teeth-staining potential :) is roughly a 7 (10 being the most inky/"teethstainers" on the market). Delicate watery rim with little visible tannins. 

Palette:
Unassuming at first. More subdued that the 06 vintage initially. Then the palette is treated to a very ripened/juicy plum flavor as well as a soft, black cherry picked directly from the tree on a hot July afternoon. A little heat is present from the alcohol (not a negative trait for me unless it overpowers the fruit). Curiously creamy with slight viscosity though not necessarily "thick". The finish is wonderful, pulling out an interesting, cheesecake-esque essence of cherry goo, vanilla, and graham crackers. 
I have shared this wine with so many friends and acquaintances and EVERY person who has enjoyed this wine with us remembers it and we have never had anyone say they did not enjoy it. I think the '06 is a little more "ball busting" than the '07 but the refined state of elegance is a nice tough to this wonderful vintage. I rate this Shiraz a 91 and for the cost, it is a very good deal.

Saturday, January 31, 2009

Sat 1/31/09: Sur De Los Andes Torrontes 2008

Designation: N/A
Variety: Torrontes
Vintage: 2008
Country: Argentina
Region: Salta
Sub-Region: N/A
Appellation: Cafayate
Cost: $10 - $15 range


Background: This 100% Torrontes which honestly, I wasn't all too familiar with. This was on the tasting bar yesterday at AW and it blew me away. At $11.99, I wasn't expecting a whole lot. Needless to say, I was pleasantly surprised. This is a white wine that screams late Spring, green grass, and blue skies.

Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions: The one thing that becomes readily apparent with this wine is the absolute beautiful, golden clarity that looks back at you with a smart ass smile from your glass. Legs are random around the circumference but sexy nonetheless. Wine is quite viscous like a watery olive oil (which helps justify for me at least, drinking a white wine as this in the dead of  winter). 
The nose is the treat. Tangerine, lime, grapefruit peel, and one of the most intense floral bouquet I have ever experienced will make you want to transfer the natural fragrance of your home into this odiferous epiphany. 

Palette:
This vino goes over your palette like a citrus-laden shawl full of orange, tangerine, pineapple, and lemon/lime. The viscosity that was visibly present in the glass now coats your mouth with an elegant, caressing texture that ensures a long finish of honeysuckle and a hint of apricot. Enjoyed this night with a superb She-Crab soup (if I might say so myself), this was a perfect compliment and would go as well with any time of seafood (among many other things). However, this is a wine that you can have without a thing to eat (what I will personally refer to from now on as "Tuesday afternoon" wine)  It is beautiful in so many ways. I give this sweetheart a firm 89 and for the price, you can pick up a case without breaking your piggy bank.

Friday, January 30, 2009

Fri 1/30/09: M/P #9 & Domaine de la Charbonierre - Cuvée Vieilles Vignes

Wine 1:
Producer: Marquis/Phillips
Designation: Number 9
Variety: Shiraz
Vintage: 2006
Country: Australia
Region: McLaren Vale
Cost: $40 - $50 range:

Background:
This Shiraz is undoubtedly one of my all time favorites. So much so that I thought it quite apropos to kick off my blog with it. This vino is a product of the collaboration between Australian winemakers Sarah/Sparky Marquis of Mollydooker (whom I have had the privilege to meet and shake his LEFT HAND) and US importer Dan Phillips. A few blends were also created under this partnership which has since been dissolved. Get a hold of this soon because it is a honey.

Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions:
Completely indicative of a jammy Shiraz but without the teeth-staining properties that we have come to love and respect for Aussie vinos :).
The nose displays very strong notes of cherry, blueberry, subtle smoke, and coffee bean with small hints of vanilla and chocolate.
The wine presence on the glass shows some really sexy legs, delicately revealing the 16% alcohol hiding beautifully inside, much like a tasty candy, concealing itself within a beautiful pinata. There is minor glass coating which is somewhat uncommon for an Aussie as strong as this.
Palette:
Redefining the term "silkiness", this strong blueberry/cherry/vanilla ass-slapper has luxurious texture throughout the entire transition from start to finish. Chocolate undertones predominate a beautiful experience while feeling a little heat from the 16%. The end of the bottle leaves you with a sense of accomplishment and pride that only a certain Sparky Marquis can offer. Within the $40-$50 price range, I rate this vino a 94. This is a long time favorite and after this being probably my 30th bottle or so, it still never fails to impress. Get this one as soon as possible folks.... it's leaving us forever soon.


Wine 2:
Producer: Domaine de la Charbonierre
Designation: Cuvée Vieilles Vignes
Variety: Red Rhone blend (see below)
Vintage: 2005
Country: France
Region: Rhone
Sub-Region: So. Rhone
Appellation: Chateauneuf du Pape
Cost: $30 - $40 range


Background: This cuvee is a blend of 80 to 100 years-old vines from Grenache and 45 years-old vines from Mourvedre. In 2005, 70% Grenache, 30% Mourvèdre were used. Aged in oak barrels 12-18 months (depending on vintage; personally unsure of 2005).

Tasting Notes:
Initial Impressions:
After opening the bottle and letting it breathe for at least 45 mins, the initial pour treats you to a clear, cherry-red juice with visible tannins rimming the glass as a slight tinge of honey color. As with all Rhones, the wine is light and non-viscous. Legs are long and thin with uniformity throughout the entire circumference of the glass.
The nose presents one very dominating feature that seems to be indicative with this sub-region and vintage.... strawberry preserves!! Even my 10 year old son easily determined this to be the case. Deeper into the nose you will find a wonderful floral undertone with a hint of cracked pepper, soil and even melted butter. The nose from this ChdP is a treat in itself.

Palette:
Wow (and I do not say this often). Medium-bodied with a lush yet elegant complexity that I had a feeling would be revealed in this wine. A certain softness assuages your palette as liquid silk or velvet. The strong presence of strawberry preserves dominates (note that I am not saying strawberries) with an aftertaste of blueberry, cherry and honey. The finish is very long and satisfying. This wine fit perfectly with a medium rare Rib-Eye steak. For this price range I give it a 92.
The wine would have received a 93 if I hadn't of had a Chateau du Trignon (06 - So.Rhone - $15-$20 range) the very night before and I couldn't help making comparisons. The loss of a point is not a testament to anything other than cost for me since I firmly believe that makers who are worth their salt in this region, are producing incredible wines for half the cost of this one. With that said, I honestly expected to pay more for this bottle. I was pleasantly surprised to come out under $40.
Now while this particular wine was far more complex than the Trignon (which I will be reviewing very soon), the similarities were still quite amazing.

Mission Statement

Every Friday night, it has been a long standing tradition in this house to taste some really good wines. Seeing how I thoroughly enjoy reading tasting notes on the various vinos that I am interested in, I thought that maybe I could contribute in my own little way by posting my tasting notes here for anyone who may be bored enough to read. Therefore starting on this night, I will be tasting 2 wines and recording my notes here. Now, even though the title of this blog seems to focus on Fridays (because we usually go through a few bottles), I do plan on posting when I taste on other nights as well. I will not post notes on duplicate wines unless they are separate vintages.
I will also be tasting wines that I will probably already like so many will have a decent, if not high score. So the point of this blog is not to just taste everything out there; rather, to offer notes on wines that I have enjoyed in the past or ones I buy that was either a recommendation from my local wine merchant (Anytime Wines in Cary, NC) or one that I may have just bought on a whim. 
The majority of the wines offered here will be reds. I do like whites but drink them far more seldom than the reds.
Now this is important... I need to preface a few things. I am no Robert Parker nor do I pretend to be. However, I do feel that I have a relatively sharp nose/palette so maybe those of you needing a good recommendation on a little-known wine can maybe benefit from this. I am also doing this simply for me since keeping hard copies of notes is relatively impossible with 1) the lack of discipline that keeping a journal requires; 2) the inevitable illegibility that wine-stained pages produce; and 3) a very large Bernese Mountain Dog pup names Moses and his insatiable appetite for any paper object (or other) that I seem to cherish and love. Digital is the way to go for my photography so why not for my wine notes.
So lone reader (if I am lucky), I will begin a little later tonight and be tasting two very special wines for me... I mean you.... I mean US!!!! Comments encouraged.